Tree Pruning

Using the Gotcha Sprayer adapter and an extension to spray pruning compound onto the freshly cut branches is the ideal way to prevent insect damage to your trees.

Pruning is probably one of the least understood and most daunting landscape maintenance practices for most homeowners. Many people aren’t sure what to do or when to do it. However, proper pruning is essential for maintaining attractive and healthy trees and shrubs. The practice of pruning can be simplified through an understanding of the basic principles and techniques. Although this general discussion focuses on pruning of ornamental trees and shrubs, many of the same principles will be applicable for more specialized procedures such as those used for tree fruit, small fruit, and roses.


WHY DO WE PRUNE?

There are basically six key reasons to prune ornamental trees and shrubs:

1. Maintain Plant Health and Aesthetics:
--This involves removal of dead, diseased, or injured plant parts. Removal of these weak parts helps to minimize the potential for secondary or opportunistic pests.
--It also helps to maximize the aesthetic qualities and overall vigor of the shrub or tree.

2. Control Growth:
--This involves pruning to control the overall size and density of the plant.
--However, pruning shouldn’t be the way to rectify mistakes in planning, such as when you’ve selected and planted trees that are just too big or inappropriate for the site.

3. Encourage Flower and Fruit Production:
--This involves pruning to maximize flowering and fruit production.
--This usually involves pruning to open up the canopy in order to allow more light to penetrate. This stimulates the formation of flower buds.

4. Create Special Forms:
--This involves creating highly specialized forms such as hedges, espaliers, topiaries, and pollards.

5. Rejuvenate Old or Overgrown Plants:
--This involves pruning to create new plants from old plants.
--This practice is particularly helpful for shrubs that have become overgrown,sparse, or leggy and helps to stimulate the formation of new, more productive,vigorous wood.

6. Protect People and Property:
--This involves pruning of branches and limbs that are hazardous, weak, or rotted and represent potential hazards to people and property.

Pruning Basics

Understanding the basic tools and principles of pruning can make the task easier and more effective.

Basic Equipment

To perform successful pruning, you need the right tools. While there are many specialized tools available, a few key items are essential:

1. Pruning Shears:
   • Used for small branches and twigs up to about 1½ inches in diameter.
    
   • Two types:
     • Scissors-type (bypass): Two cutting blades that bypass each other.
      
     • Anvil-type: A single cutting blade that strikes a solid metal anvil.
   • Available in both left- and right-handed models.
2. Lopping Shears:
   • Suitable for branches larger than 1¾ inches in diameter.
    
   • Similar to pruning shears but with longer handles for more leverage.
    
   • Available in both scissors- and anvil-types.
3. Pruning Saws:
   • Used for larger branches and tree limbs, usually over 2-3 inches in diameter.
    
   • Available in various sizes and types.
    
   • Chain saws can be used with proper experience and safety equipment.

Ensure all tools are sharp and clean. Regular sharpening and cleaning with a 10% household bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water), 70% alcohol, or commercial compounds like Greenshield® are recommended. Rinse and oil tools after cleaning to maintain a sharp blade and prevent the spread of diseases.

Basic Anatomical Feature

When pruning large limbs and branches, it's important to recognize the branch bark ridge (BBR) or branch collar. This slightly swollen area where a branch meets the trunk is crucial for healing and wound wood production. Make cuts just outside the BBR to ensure proper healing and avoid leaving stubs or making flush cuts.

Position of Shears

Hold pruning shears upright to make clean, controlled cuts. Ensure you use the correct shears for your dominant hand to maintain proper positioning.

Proper Pruning Cuts—Small Branches and Twigs

Consider these factors when pruning small branches and twigs:

1. Angle of Cut: Make cuts at a 45º angle for optimal healing.
2. Distance to Next Bud: Cut about ½ inch from the next bud to avoid damaging it or leaving a long stub.
3. Inward- vs. Outward-Facing Buds: Pruning to an     inward-facing bud promotes denser growth, while pruning to an     outward-facing bud encourages more open growth.

Proper Pruning Cuts—Large or Heavy Branches

Pruning large or heavy branches requires a three-step process to avoid tearing the bark:

1. First Cut: Make an undercut about 11-12 inches from the trunk, halfway through the branch.
2. Second Cut: Make a top cut about 15 inches from the trunk to remove most of the branch.
3. Third Cut: Make the final cut at the branch bark ridge with precision.

Pruning Paints and Dressings

Research shows that pruning paints and dressings are usually unnecessary and can be harmful. Proper pruning techniques that leave the branch bark ridge intact are the best defense against disease.

Pruning vs. Shearing

Pruning involves selectively cutting individual branches, while shearing cuts all branches indiscriminately. Shearing is typically used for formal hedges or topiaries,whereas pruning is used for overall plant health and shape.

When Do We Prune?

The timing of pruning depends on the plant type and desired outcome. Consider the following:

1. Dead, Damaged, or Dying Wood: Remove     anytime.
2. Spring-Flowering Trees and Shrubs: Prune right     after blooming. Examples: azalea, rhododendron, magnolia.
3. Summer-Flowering Trees and Shrubs: Prune in late     winter or spring before new growth. Examples: Rose-of-Sharon, viburnum.
4. Non-Flowering Trees and Shrubs: Prune when     dormant, typically in late winter or spring.

How Do We Prune?

Three basic pruning techniques are thinning, heading, and rejuvenation. The goal is to enhance health and aesthetics without making the plant look obviously pruned.

1. Thinning Cuts:some text
    
   • Remove entire branches or shoots at the base or ground level.
    
   • Maintains the natural shape and stimulates vigorous growth of remaining branches.
 
2. Heading Cuts:some text
    
   • Shorten branches to stimulate growth from remaining buds.
    
   • Promotes dense, compact growth and reduces size.
    
   • Avoid topping or cutting all branches to the same level to prevent unattractive growth.
 
3. Rejuvenation Pruning:some text
    
   • Used for old, overgrown plants.
    
   • Can be drastic (all cuts at once) or gradual (over three years).
    
   • Essential to understand how the plant responds and provide proper care before and after pruning.

Helpful Specialized Pruning Techniques

Pruning Hedges:

• Two methods: formal (sheared) and informal (natural).
• Start pruning the first year to encourage full, low growth.
• Shape hedges wider at the bottom than the top to ensure even light exposure.

Pruning Needled Evergreens:

• Generally require minimal pruning.
• Whorled branches (e.g., pine, spruce) should be pruned to active, needled shoots.
• Random branches with latent buds (e.g., yew, arborvitae) can be pruned to wood without needles.
• Random branches without latent buds (e.g., juniper, cedar) should not be pruned back to needle-less wood.